Connecting the World Through Fermentation - Culture Crossroads | NHK WORLD-JAPAN (2025)

00:11

Foods fermented with micro-organisms, such as miso and soy sauce...

00:19

... are indispensable seasonings in the Japanese diet.

00:25

However, changes in dietary habits have driven a number of sake breweries and miso makers out of business.

00:32

One person is trying to leverage the global market

00:35

to find a way to keep Japan's rich fermented food traditions alive.

00:41

Fermented food is getting a lot of attention.

00:44

Traditional fermented food, or products from local and small makers...

00:53

are selling more around the world, gaining popularity among young people.

01:01

We look at some new approaches to Japanese fermented foods.

01:17

This shop in a residential area of Tokyo offers fermented foods from all over Japan.

01:26

Ogura Hiraku is the owner.

01:28

He visits producers across the country to spread awareness of Japan's fermentation culture.

01:35

This tea is produced only in Asahi-machi, a town in Toyama Prefecture.

01:41

The number of tea fields is very limited, so it's rarely available outside the town.

01:49

I helped harvest the tea for two years before I was finally allowed to handle it.

01:56

We sell foods deeply tied to the history and culture of each region.

02:08

The shop's reputation draws in people from across Japan - and also from abroad.

02:15

This one is a ko-ji beer. So instead of malt, there is a ko-ji and the beer without malt.

02:25

Well, that's probably worth a try, I think, yeah.

02:31

- It's really nice.
- Really good.

02:34

- Tastes good?
- Taste good. "Oishi desu."

02:38

Hiraku's main job is a graphic designer.

02:41

But he became fascinated by the depth of the history and culture of Japanese fermented foods,

02:48

and eventually studied microbiology and oenology at university.

02:53

Brewing cultures usually have traditional features preserved along with them...

02:58

such as old cellars and paddy fields.

03:03

There's a history passed down, and many stories to tell.

03:10

He has used his expertise as a designer to write a book about Japanese fermented foods.

03:18

Videos that use his illustrations to show how to make miso are a big hit.

03:31

Hiraku calls himself a 'fermentation designer.'

03:35

He tries to communicate Japanese fermentation culture to the world.

03:41

His aim is to invite overseas food professionals to Japan

03:46

to experience fermented foods for themselves, along with Japanese culture and history.

03:54

The best form of promotion is to show people actual production sites.

03:58

Seeing what kind of people are making what sort of products...

04:02

gives visitors ideas for how they can help.

04:07

He chose Odawara City, for his next tour.

04:11

Its abundant products from the sea and mountains underpin a unique fermentation culture.

04:18

There's one place in particular that Hiraku wants the visitors to see.

04:26

It's a miso brewery established more than 170 years ago.

04:33

The current seventh-generation owner is Kato Atsushi.

04:39

Miso is one of Japan's traditional fermented foods.

04:45

It's made by fermenting and maturing a mixture of soybeans, koji mold, and salt.

04:51

It's mainly used as a seasoning.

04:55

The current trend is for sweeter miso with a high koji content.

04:59

But Atsushi values the traditional taste with the natural flavor of the soybeans.

05:07

For fermentation, it's crucial to steam the soybeans to just the right degree of hardness.

05:14

He checks the texture using a scale and also by chewing the beans,

05:19

taking temperature and humidity into account.

05:29

How hard is it?

05:31

A bit on the firm side, but acceptable.

05:35

Still not quite right, though.

05:40

Atsushi 's miso cellar is fitted with rails to efficiently maneuver the miso barrels in tight spaces.

05:46

This kind of facility, which has been in use for 100 years, is rarely seen elsewhere.

05:56

Atsushi says he wants to show off his brewery to make miso more appealing to overseas customers.

06:07

The miso industry is exporting more.

06:10

If miso makers like us are to survive, I feel we have to follow this trend.

06:20

On the day of the tour, nine visitors from the US, Denmark and elsewhere assembled.

06:27

They included experts in fermentation and cookery, as well as famous chefs.

06:34

The itinerary included a two-day tour of markets and sake and miso breweries.

06:41

The function of the stone - there are two functions. One is pressing the miso and pushing out the oxygen.

06:50

It was the first time they had actually seen the miso production process with their own eyes.

06:57

The craftsmanship and the historic brewery made a strong impression on them.

07:03

With the excitement still fresh in their minds, they tasted Atsushi's miso.

07:18

The miso was really great. I really appreciate the aged miso,

07:22

and that has a lot more umami and flavor development over time

07:28

and the level of acidity that really balanced it.

07:30

It's very special because you don't see any sort of professional production that looks so vintage.

07:39

It's, you know, in the Western world you would never ever find something quite as special as that.

07:45

The tour also gave Atsushi a new insight.

07:51

Miso makers tend to have a stereotypical view of how miso should be eaten.

07:59

It's good that people from overseas show us how they're using it,

08:05

and also for us to learn from them.

08:10

Finally, a cooking session, where the chefs showed off their skills using fermented foods

08:16

such as sake and vinegar, along with local ingredients.

08:23

Hiraku gave the participants advice on how to use fermented foods.

08:30

A food professional created a sour and spicy curry-flavored soup based on Atsushi 's miso.

08:40

The soup stock was made with onions, shiitake mushrooms and pickled plums.

08:46

He added wood ear mushrooms, spring onions, dried radish and fish cake.

08:52

The novel taste and texture took the Japanese hosts by surprise.

08:58

It's curry but it's mild and gentle. Japanese people will love it.

09:05

And the soup stock is amazing.

09:10

Hiraku hopes to make Japanese fermentation culture a common property

09:15

for people all over the world so they can evolve it together.

09:25

I think the tour shouldn't simply be about entertaining overseas visitors,

09:30

but also about creating a collaboration with locals.

09:38

Learning about Japanese culture can inspire visitors.

09:43

And the visitors also create something, so there's mutual inspiration.

09:50

We did it in a really ideal way!

Connecting the World Through Fermentation - Culture Crossroads | NHK WORLD-JAPAN (2025)
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